Climbing nuts vs hexes. The document has moved here.

Climbing nuts vs hexes Starter nut sets include a few larger micro nut sizes in the assortment. You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a Jan 8, 2024 · Write for UKH . It’s a world that has two categories: active and passive climbing protection devices. Just like wires, the rock needs to be solid and the crack ideally needs a slight taper (See the placing wires article for testing the rock or How to Climb Harder). Mar 1, 2016 · I'm new to outdoor climbing and am trying to build a solid rack for all sort of top rope anchors. On some rock types hexes do work better though (Pembroke limestone) Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. One of the best value for climbing nuts is the full set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which come in at $119. May 2020. Nov 12, 2019 · As an emergency extender the dyneema works better (basically the previous point) if extending a nut. For unknown long climbs . Classic, simple, lightweight, functional pro, Black Diamond Hexes shine in rapidly widening cracks where cams might walk out. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin DMM Wales are the only manufacturer of rock climbing and industrial access gear based in the UK -- I make videos for them to show off the features and great Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. 95. Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. Aug 8, 2022 · There are much smaller nuts, like RPs, and much larger ones, like hexes (see page 28 for more info on specialized passive pro). Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos 4 days ago · How much does a full rack of climbing nuts cost? A full rack of climbing nuts will cost around $120. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. They eventually became ‘hex centric’ in that each side was of a different length. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. Nov 3, 2011 · Saved Content. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. Torque Nuts can be used to protect parallel sided cracks. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. Today, our climbing protection is still the trusted industry standard – and we’re still just as committed to innovation. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers will work perfectly as a Shop for climbing hexes at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Apr 23, 2022 · Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbinghttps://rockclimb. com/jbmountainOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! https://teespring. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Read Time - 9 minutes. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. We like to compliment the Black Diamond Stoppers with a set of offset nuts. Double up 2-7. Therefore we've been thinking on buying maybe one big Hex or blue DMM's torque nut just in case we might need something so big for the route. buymeacoffee. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments In the climbing world, your choice of climbing protection devices matters a lot. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. Nuts, also known as nuts or chocks, are small metal wedges that can be inserted into cracks in the rock to provide anchor points for climbers. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Dyneema comes in pretty colours! (aside from aesthetics, it's actually useful for grabbing the one you are looking for first time). Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. . Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. Some climbers prefer cams instead of hexes as they are usually more versatile, if more expensive and slightly less reassuring. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! https://www. We have teamed up with Plas-Y-Brenin to find out the difference between a Prussik and a French Prussik. Both work in similar ways. In rock climbing, you should learn how to choose a climbing nut for protection. They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. Setting Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. The result is a nut that not only looks good but maximises the camming expansion - this is especially noticeable in horizontal placements. Let us know what else you want to see!6kN Nut Tests: Hexes were an extension of the machine nuts that climbing started using for protection. Easy to rack and pla Nov 30, 2017 · There are two really good options to hexes, one is the DMM Torque Nuts and the other is Wild Country Hexcentrics. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. Anything bigger than a size 11 nut just flops if you try and place it with the wire yet are just rigid enough to be more annoying on your harness. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. . So cam's would get my vote in a parrallel crack. The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. If you already have some cams i'd definately choose 4 Torque nuts over 1 extra cam. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Which neither of us own. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. Curved nuts have a concave face on one side and a convex face on the other. Going back to your point on cams not being necessary below VS. Nuts appear to be rated based on the wire attached to them. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Each employs a noticeably different wedge-end shape than you find on a typical nut. 6. The document has moved here. ive used both torque nuts and rockcentrics and the torques overlap 2 rockcentric sizes i. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. An extensive set of nuts, rocks, and hexes is imperative if you’re looking to improve your climbing ability beyond the basics—any pro climber will tell you that. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. the size 1-4 Torques are pretty much similar to the wild country rocks 11-14, so they are great for the bigger sizes. It is always best to extend nut or hex placements with a quickdraw or an extended alpine draw, according to the anticipated direction of the climb. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. With a subtly asymmetrical cross-section, flat sides and slight end-wise taper, they offer three different widths when turned on their axes and another when placed end-wise. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. We will be explaining everything from putting on harn Just smack the side of the nut tool repeatedly against the hex the opposite way it was set until you jar it loose. Sep 22, 2009 · "What the Torque Nuts achieve is a combination of curves and pivot points which allow the nut to cam correctly. What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Gear . Moved Permanently. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. TN 1=Rockcentric 5+6, TN 2=Rock 6 Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. Nuts Buying Guide. While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. Fair enough in a horizontal break, then it's cams or tricams, otherwise its always a whacking great hex or a nice snug nut that makes me feel safe. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. Also by carefully calculating the relative side angles the expansion range is increased. Nuts are available in different shapes to help the climber find the best fit for a given crack. Jun 23, 2024 · Early Climbing Gear: Nuts and Hexes. Other passive pro includes tri-cams, Hexentrics ® (hexes) and tube chocks. Passive camming. Their shape means they can be used in multiple orientations, giving you a wide range of placement options with every piece. Then it can be removed by hand. They do though admittedly have a less superior sling setup than DMM Torque Nuts, but at least they are slung which is important to not having them rattle loose from rope movement like the wired hexes Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. A solid nut placement in a crack is bomber enough to take a big fall from a lead climber. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Lightweight aluminium alloy construction means that despite their low weight, each Torque Nut has a 14kN strength rating. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. WC every day for me. The extendable slings on DMM ones are well annoying and the ones on wire have no benefit. Protection devices refer to nuts, cams, hexes, stoppers, and so on. In the 1970s, our original Stoppers helped lead the shift toward clean climbing. com/en-GB/stores/ Moved Permanently. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Check out our great prices and latest deals! DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4 - Extendable Sling Nov 3, 2011 · Camming a hex in a vertical crack takes practice and time. What do you guys suggest nuts or hexes which brands and what sizes are most commonly used so I know where to start buying equipment. The reason behind this was that someone trying to make their own at home wasn’t very accurate as cutting and made it by accident as realised that the eccentric shape work Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small sizes of the standard nut range for gear-intensive routes. Hexes, on the other hand, are hexagonal-shaped pieces of A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. I will not be setting a top rope just off these nuts or hexes but just to incorporate them. Cams are less likely to get unseated as you climb above them (but more likely to walk inward). Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. Pull the nut down into the constriction, paying attention to the surface contact between the nut and the rock. You can hammer them into icy cracks. But no crack is truly parrallel so you should find a spot to place a bomber hex somewhere on the route. I find hexes fit much better and more securely in subtle constriction cracks and V cracks than nuts do. Mar 28, 2021 · Placing Hexeshttps://rockclimb. Performance *** (Hexes ****) Value **** We are always keen to test climbing hardwear here… We busted some climbing nuts at slacksnap. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. " Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. ROCK CLIMBING PROTECTION. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. In the early days of sport climbing, climbers relied on nuts and hexes as their primary form of protection. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. e. Oct 28, 2016 · Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. If this is happening to you with your Torque Nuts, then you are not setting them hard enough. Sep 15, 2014 · CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance. Choose whichever fits best in the placement! Nuts are your bread and butter, with a few hexes for larger sizes. Nov 8, 2008 · Large homemade nuts had been around in the UK for many years, made from both large machine nuts, wooden blocks and even pipe, and in most articles about the history of the big nut it’s usually Tom Frost who’s given the honour of designing the first proper alloy hex, with the Chouinard Hexentric which appeared in 1971. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. Larger nuts can be placed in either of two aspects (hexes in three aspects) to suit different-width cracks, with either the main faces or the sides in contact with the rock. Aug 1, 2010 · In reply to Roger Irrelevant: i have a full set of nuts (1-10) and then went a bought the torque nuts. In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Learn how to use nuts and hexes. Rock climbing protection has always been a core part of what we design and build. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Double Cap. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. A downside to passive protection is that it is more likely to pop out with rope drag. dngf wkxnz ahivla uqwvdu wrtyzf ebeswjgu yksx pqik wxjoq zeqk