Toe hook climbing. Emily noticed a large volume on her climbing route.

Toe hook climbing She locked in a toe hook by pressing her toes against the volume's inside edge, creating tension with her foot. By pointing the toes outward, you can use some of the side area of the heel for more contact with the wall. May 13, 2022 · Toe-hooks also have broad applications on less-steep, featured terrain, such as ramps, arêtes and the sides of boulders. Dec 1, 2023 · Some holds can be toe hooked or heel hooked, while with other holds one technique will be your only option. Mastering Toe Hooks Advanced Climbing Techniques. However sometimes the holds aren't large and might only be a thin edge of a volume. Toe hook: This is the process of hooking your toes behind a hold. Toe hooking is a fundamental climbing technique, especially useful on overhanging routes or when you need to increase your reach . Developing the correct footwork and optimal use of your feet, not only will save you a lot of energy while mastering climbing Mar 6, 2023 · Horizontal pulling, which tends to look like pulling into the wall, is a critical move in climbing and something that often gets overshadowed by pullups. Toe-Hook. Keywords: toe hook climbing technique, climbing techniques for beginners, effective toe hook strategies, bouldering tips for climbers, improve climbing performance, climbing footwork methods, move optimization in climbing, advanced climbing techniques, toe compression techniques in climbing, climbing training exercises. Climb Toe hook performance at arch - full-foot toe hooks, as if you're hooking a feature or a lip and you can use the whole rig. Some climbers are always looking for a heel while climbing, while others will only use a heel when it is absolutely necessary. If you can't use a heel hook, a toe hook can be used instead to achieve the same goal. Apr 26, 2017 · Any time you toe-hook, your goal should be to make a 90 degree angle between the top of your foot and the rest of your leg. A toe-hook can prevent a barn-door swing from yanking you right off the rock. Toe hooks are similar to heel hooks in what they are used for. Sometimes a toe hook that's too close will make it hard for me to keep tension on the next move with my hips sagging. I don’t think there’s any shoe heel out there that would fit my heel well enough to compensate for the slippage. Mar 21, 2022 · The more you practice, the better you will become at recognizing when heel hooks are appropriate. Mastering Toe Hooks, Advanced Climbing Techniques @thevikingclimb With the high difficulty levels achieved, the legs have come into their own with a very broad scope of active performance moves with Heel pushing and pulling (heel-hook) and the Upper part of the foot pulling (toe hook). youtube. Posted: May 30, 2025 | Last updated: June 6, 2025. Watch our Climbing Movement Essentials Series: https://bit. As new climbers, using our toes can come fairly intuitively (but not withou Oct 12, 2018 · When the heel-hook is relatively high above you, place it as for a 'conventional' heel-hook using the ball of your heel, with the toe pointing upwards. Overhang is my cup of tea. Apr 11, 2024 · Different heel hooks prefer different shoe stiffnesses, but in either case, the pointing of the toe away from the climber’s body, and the direction toward which they are pulling is essential for this technique. Nov 16, 2022 · For many, the heel hook is a matter of personal preference – in fact, some feel more comfortable with a toe hook and use that technique more often on the climbing wall. Often when my taller friends use a heel hook, I use a toe hook to give me those few essential extra inches. Be wary of the heel hooks that are placed close to your pelvis and require you to turn your foot out while rocking over. Mountain Guide Andy Perkins offers his insider tips. Mar 10, 2025 · The Scarpa Drago ($209) is a precision tool, dialed in for steep bouldering and sport climbing. The three main uses of them, how to keep them on, and why they are so useful!KEEP UPDATED WITH Feb 14, 2022 · To toe- hook, wrap the top of your foot around a corner, above a lip or in an “undercling” position. But before we dive into the routines, let’s look at the biomechanical functioning of the toe during climbing. iii) Marginal toe-hooks and compression toe-hooking. When you see an arête or edge that could be heel-hooked, but you can’t quite reach it, try using the top of your foot or even the instep, to hold your body in place. By hooking your heel over a flake or edge, you are able to pull with your leg. Most Comfortable: Ocun Jett QC ; Best for Jumping Grades: Butora Acro ; Best Value: Black Diamond Method; Best for Bouldering: Scarpa Drago LV ; Best for Sport Climbing: La Sportiva Solution Comp; Best for Trad Climbing: Scarpa Vapor S; Best for Narrow Feet: Red Ankle dorsiflexion is the act of drawing the toes back towards the shin. This is my ABSOLUTE go-to move on any angle! I’ve even used it on a slab problem. What are the basic rock climbing footwork techniques that will improve climbing technique and efficiency? Basic footwork for rock climbing includes mastering these 4 techniques: Edging, Smearing, Toe Hook, and Heel Hook. in this guide. The position is a fairly simple one: place your heel as you would for a heel hook, then wedge your toe behind another hold. They aren't quite as flashy as toe hooks, but they are incredibly useful and actually have a better transition than the heel hook. Apr 16, 2025 · Heel hooks, toe hooks, and other creative footwork are much more important on steep terrain. ". I've got pretty weak arms, so I really try to keep my hips tight to the wall and use my feet. It is useful and requires time to master. Place as much of the heel on or around a hold. Having strong and mobile ankle dorsiflexion is beneficial in climbing for several reasons. Position 2: Side heel – toe to the side. Use your ankle to raise your toes back towards your knee while straightening your legyou should feel tension in your ankle, calf, hamstring, knee, and quad. Toe-hooking gives you a few more inches than heel-hooking. Need the knee, which means needing the toes. Sep 12, 2023 · So far, we've covered a lot of movements that involve pushing through your feet, so today we're going to learn on of the "pull" techniques with our feet - the Toe Hook. So, I can use a toe hook along with that coordination of my core muscles to keep my body in place. Having your leg more bent changes the emphasis on which muscles are used the most. They also typically require you to be more active in pulling in to the toe hook than straight legged toe hooks. Gotten stuck on this route which made me realize that I suck at toe hooks lol. Position 2: Side heel - Toe-to-the-side This is the classic 'compression' position, which is used when the target feature is level to your hips and out to the side (or at the mid point during a Feb 16, 2023 · when To Heel Hook in climbing. Mar 19, 2024 · Because, at the end of the day, the best climbing shoe is the one you like wearing. Jul 18, 2018 · In this Rock Climbing Tip video I show an example of proper Toe Hook placement and use to be able to send this specific bouldering problem. When I wore the Stix, I was more likely than not to fail on a 6A toe hook, they are that bad. First, toe hooking always involves some level of ankle dorsiflexion. With its smooth integration of a heel hook and a toe hook, the heel-toe cam provides versatility. Heel Toe Cam: A Combined Approach. I’d like something good for toe hooks, because my hyperhidrosis really screws me over when it comes to heel hooks. Paige Claassen developed the above drill while training for a hard project in Norway. How to Toe Hook (For Those Who Have Trouble with Toe Hooks) - Sunday Sends Ep. Toe hook performance at toe? Jan 2, 2020 · Struggling with toe hooks? The technique is less intuitive than many other climbing moves. Perfect for beginners and experienced climbers alike!• Sep 18, 2023 · Heel-hook and toe-hook techniques make climbing more creative and accessible. To execute a toe hook, the top of your toes must come in contact with the underside (or sometimes side) of a hold. Bent leg toe hooks are often useful in roofs, less so on less step ground. Bat-hang – hanging from two toe hooks, no hands! Nov 12, 2019 · Toe hooks employ your toe knuckles to hook under a hold. Integrate it into your normal gym routine to see fast progress with your footwork. How to toe hook and how to release a toe hook as well. To place a toe hook, you use the top part of your toe (that's why they put rubber there!) to pull sideways against an arete or side pull or you can pull inward on an undercling to help keep your body from swinging out. I’m definitely not a big slab guy. Toe hook. Sometimes a toe-hook can be used to assist with progression on arêtes or rounded prows, as opposed to merely using them for balance or releasing a hand. For additional stability and complex body positioning, toe hooks are invaluable: Applying Toe Hooks: Find the Hold: Spot a hold or feature that you can hook your toes onto. full-foot toe hooks, as if you're hooking a feature or a lip and you can use the whole rig. Apr 27, 2022 · When the heel-hook is high above you, place it with the toe pointing upward. From positive volumes to slopey holds, a carefully placed toe-hook can provide balance, tension and pull-power while Mar 29, 2019 · Utilize a toe hook if a heel hook isn't possible. A sibling of the best-selling Solution, the Comp series differs in that the heel cup is softer, extra rubber is added along the toe for heel hooks, and the midsole is more flexible. Jan 28, 2024 · Although rock climbing is an exhilarating experience, each climber How To Improve Your Toe Hooks For Climbing? If you've ever had trouble placing your toe hook or slipping off holds, you're in the right place. Practice this in a relaxed sitting or standing position first. Done! When executed properly, a heel-toe cam locks your heel in place on its hold, while simultaneously providing leverage on the toe (see also toe kooks below). - MY CLIMBING GEAR Mastering heel hook technique can be a game changer in your climbing progression. The Heel Hook is one of those moves that can be used extensively while climbing. Heel placement is just as important as being able to recognize a heel-hook opportunity. Depending on the body size and weight of climbers, as well as anatomical factors and conditioning, their climbing arsenal and body movement repertoire also vary. Jul 23, 2024 · GB Climbing Coach Rachel Carr shows you how to toe hook. It baffles me that the same man could design the toe rubber perfection that is the Instinct VS, and then go on to design the Stix toe rubber. Toe hooks are one of those techniques that climbers either love or hate and many will develop chronic toe-hook phobias and settle for alternatives that are way less efficient. com/emilabrahamsson to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Comfort can be a factor here. 123Disclaimer: We are not climbing coaches. But there are some simple details that will make a difference in managing to toe hook for the first time, as well as in improving your technique if you are already toe hooking. I could splay out my toes on slick volumes, grab bulbous holds on the steeps, reel in heel and toe hooks on powerful aretes, and smear up friction slabs both indoors and out. Jul 13, 2022 · Supportive on small foot holds // Stiffness reduces foot fatigue on long multi-pitches // Toe patch is protective for crack climbing and super sticky for toe hooks and heel-toe cams // “PAF” heel system takes the pressure off of the Achilles while micro edging // Feels light and airy, especially with the newly breathable tongue Toe Hooking is such an important technique for climbing - especially on steeper ground and navigating aretes. Dec 17, 2024 · With a huge pad of sticky toe rubber, an aggressive downturned shape with lots of sensitivity, and a Velcro strap to keep the shoe from sliding off on heel hooks, this shoe screams steep climbing. Position Your Leg: Bend your knee and rotate your hip so your toes rest on the hold, placing pressure with the top of your foot. Jul 11, 2022 · The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. Nov 17, 2023 · This learning curve was short lived once we realized wearing the Mantra is a lot like climbing barefoot—except stickier and less painful. How to Execute the Heel Hook. Before making this move, approach carefully and take your posture and confidence into consideration. These techniques require special design features, and the La Sportiva Genius is particularly good at heel hooking thanks to the rubber around its heel cup. 3. Jul 14, 2019 · The Toe Hook. Instead of planting your heel, you'll need to pull with the top of your foot. Emily noticed a large volume on her climbing route. We're just the Sunday Sends Crew Jun 20, 2013 · One more example of a toe hook will also be when you have featurees like this, large climbing holds, there isn't really a space for me to be pressing down on. 10 V10. It’s more common to use a heel hook climbing, but toe hooks are still important to have in your climbing arsenal. The specific use of these techniques comes well within a more evolved period of climbing. Jan 25, 2024 · Even though toe hooks aren't as popular as other climbing techniques, learning them can greatly expand your climbing repertoire In this guide, we'll delve deeply into the topic of "toe hook climbing. - MY CLIMBING GEAR -Chalk: https://amzn. Jan 30, 2024 · A strong toe-hooking technique requires repetition and appropriate foot placement. Learn everything you need to know about heel hooks and toe hooks in climbing with this complete guide. Oct 29, 2023 · Jain Kim, veteran World Cup gold medalist, finding a crucial heel hook in the Lead World Cup, Xiamen, China, 2019. Though incredibly simple, many climbers neglect to utilise this move to save energy, maintain body tension and prevent cutting. It is not uncommon for toe hooks to involve flexing your ankle as much as possible. The heel is meant for heel hooks, at many different angles, to help lock you into the wall and suck your hip in to make long reaches. While the pullup moves the arm from an elevated position to a lowered one, horizontal pulling moves the arm from a flexed to an extended one, and the scapula from a protracted to a retracted position. And perhaps the most standout feature is the price: While most of the competition slides in between $190 and $220, Five Ten (aka Adidas) has managed Want to know everything you need to know about how to climb the Breithorn - one of the classic "4,000ers". And then you toe hook! Suddenly, your anterior tibialis and toe extensors aren’t just carrying your foot against gravity, they’re pulling against a percentage of your body weight. When a toe hook is performed correctly, it can give you stability and help conserve energy. Toe hook performance at arch. Whether you are replacing a limb for a limb (ha Jul 4, 2022 · Want to get WEEKLY on-the-wall training from Louis Parkinson and off-the-wall training from Neil Gresham? Join our channel and become a Catalyst Online Squad Jun 8, 2022 · Or when we need a strenuous knee-bar rest, which strains our toes, maybe insanely? Big-toe strength isn’t just handy for the occasional bit of slab climbing—we need it for everything. You can even press the top—the lace or Velcro area—into the wall in a toe drag to help keep your hips in when making long reaches. Position 3: Low heel – toe down. 02. We’ve made it easy for you to discover local climbing wall in your area Toe hooking is usually one of my biggest strengths on boulder problems up to 8A. It has so many applications in both indoor and outdoor climbing, both in bouldering and sport climbing. This is a great move for short people because it lengthens you. Finally, when the heel-hook is lower down or at the end point of a big compression move, point the toe downward to As always, it’s good to read the route before climbing to identify spots where using a heel hook will make your climbing more effective. com/playlist?list=PLLALQuK1NDrjugIQA3Te01g3ksXghWCMR--Rockin’ Rock Climbing CommoditiesMomentum Climbing Harness: http://a He placed his toes under the edge and hooked them upwards, creating a toe hook that allowed him to stabilize his upper body and reach for the next hold with confidence. Apr 18, 2023 · Go to https://athleticgreens. Climbing Technique: Heel and Toe Hooking Heel hooking is the technique of using the foot as a ‘third hand’. Oct 5, 2018 · Todays Rock climbing tip video we go over the toe hook. Hey, guys! This Training Series Video is focused on Toe Hook. ly/movementessentialsWe're the BMC. I also don’t generally use them a lot so maybe I’m not even using them when I should? I’ve seen people use toe hooks on mantles when I thought you should heel hook so it might just be my inexperience . sh/catalystclimbing07221 Want to get WEEKLY on-the-wall trai Jan 7, 2019 · A common mistake is to miss toe-hooks around the sides of boulders, as they lie outside the standard field of vision. May 30, 2025 · BVIRAL Sports. The first heels you throw will likely be low and at normal foot height, but eventually you’ll master heel hooks above your head. Short climbers that struggle to make long reaches, for example, can use their heel like a third hand to raise their center of gravity on the wall. Sep 30, 2014 · Aid Climbing – climbing with mechanical aid such as nails, hooks, bolt ladders as opposed to only using features of the rock to ascend; opposite of free climbing. Climbing walls are a great way to start climbing and to stay fit. How to do it: Identify where you want to go and identify the handhold that you want to leverage. You may have noticed that a lot of climbing shoes, especially high performance ones, have an abundance of rubber over the top of the toes Full Playlist: https://www. As you gain height, rotate the foot so the toe points outward to the side. Rubber is usually not in play, but some shoes do have rubber all the way up the arch, such as the solution or the now-defunct 5. (Photo: Eddie Fowke / ISCF) Not all, but some heel hooks require knee flexibility for proper, safe execution. May 21, 2020 · Toe hooks are usually used when you need to keep your body tight against the climbing wall while needing assistance of a foothold to pull in the opposite direction. Feb 28, 2022 · Hard steep climbing requires aggressive shoes with power and precision, and no other climbing shoe does both better than the La Sportiva Solution Comp. to/2Ma4 This is definitely the best way to utilize the toe hook, but there are a lot of times it hurts my climbing otherwise. Bicycles, toe hooks, and all sorts of 3D climbing techniques are the Drago’s strengths outdoors Yeah good point, I should’ve mentioned that. Other methods, which we'll cover in future blogs, include the toe-in and the heel hook. The holds for a toe hook are usually quite big and will offer some sort of flat or curved edge where you can hook your toe in. Toe Hook. Just like it’s counterpart, the toe-hook can make steep and powerful moves feel doable. And in order for the toe to hook and remain hooked, two things Jun 9, 2020 · Toe Hook Technique Tips for Rock Climbing Beginners and Intermediates We have gone over the main factors that will determine if your toe hooking will be effective. Also the start is V3-V4 but the rest is feels closer to V2-V3. migq zkont zuibtqfg knmt seirj gcejt znisq upbyzejt vvyff vwy