Best double length sling anchor reddit. Take your double length sling, girth it to your harness.

Best double length sling anchor reddit. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Didn't want to overcomplicate things. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. Some people use a double length sling tied to a master point (my preferred method), some build their anchor out of the rope, some just go directly into the chains with their PAS and a sling. Rope management is more difficult (especially if other parties are rapping to your station). 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Using the rope to anchor is super easy on bolts, too, if you’re swinging leads. Really depends on the scenario. Just tie an overhand on a double length sling into a masterpoint and belay off that using a Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. In this video we review how to create a top rope anchor using a double-length sling (also known in the United States as a 4-foot sling). If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. It's much harder to escape the belay. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. The reasons the Bunny Ears is a good system is that it's efficient and it means that you don't have to carry an extra sling for the anchors. Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Also, the locking I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains/anchor. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Lots of climbers ask me: "How can i build a top rope anchor?". The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). Depends on the route and the rack. If you're swinging leads, you can just use your rope + cloves and a giant double figure 8 for a master too. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. 1x Double Length Sling (Edelrid Aramid shown here) and Friction Hitch (Sterling Autoblock shown here) on 1x carabiner This is my “rappel kit” to extend a rappel with a backup. I personally use 1. Nwslackline. Use the one you prefer. Now tie a knot a third of the way out. I like using a double-length sling to make a chest harness and hold up one of the ascenders. If you really want to extend a rappel, one shoulder length sling works great, or as Rockso mentioned just put a carabiner in the knot when you tie off a double length sling, making it easy to untie. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. It was getting too complicated. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors. tree and would triload biners? Skip the wrap or get longer slings? I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Make sure you've got all the troubleshooting skills down. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. A safer alternative using the gear in hand would be to use one sling per bolt and knot the two together above the lockers. On multipitch it's also my anchor, so it always stays attached. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit and giggles. Depending on the situation I'll either use single length nylon slings or a knotted double that I clip into the anchors. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Learn how to create an extended rappel using a 120cm sling. 5 meter rope tether. In a pinch, you can always put two single length slings together. Is that just me or do other people also refer to a sling that size as a quad? Dynema is amazing. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. If your second falls, they fall on you and not the anchor. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". What you're doing is fine. As others have said. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Ive seen others use 3 or more but i prefer using a Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. Then on the other bolt, put a locker on and clove hitch your rope onto that locker. Apr 12, 2019 · This sling comes in four different lengths, and while we tested the double-length (60cm) version, which is ideal for use on lead to extend protection pieces, either the 120cm or 240cm versions would be solid choices for use in anchor building. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. But it certainly does not conform to best practices. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. You're attaching your double length sling via both of your hard points using a girth hitch and then attaching that to one bolt at the anchors. Whichever slings have a smooth transition at the bar tack are best. I will show you how to set up a simple yet tough and awesome top rope anchor. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be adjusted Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. Seems like those would be awfully short if I go w/ "basket" w/ another wrap around a 1' dia. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. There's a lot more going on when you transition to rappel, for instance. If there aren't bolted anchors available, you'll need pro to build your own. May 23, 2016 · The materials throughout are more than enough strong for the application, but when confronted with a double bolt anchor without chains this device doesn’t allow you to be clipped into both without building a quick sling anchor (Magic X) or the like. Check out some double length dynema slings to make a mini quad if anchor hangers aren’t too far apart. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Figure eights a little easier to untie than two oberhands, too. Take your double length sling, girth it to your harness. Using a magic x will defeat the purpose of a quad (having ample space to clip in) but isnt un safe. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • I typically use double slings too, but use a munter + locker at the master point to reduce the amount of material needed. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. . May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. A lot less material and weighs nothing. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. com Use a double fisherman's knot for Perlon cord or a triple fisherman's knot for the thinner UHMW polyethylene cord. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. My favorite part is when cleaning up an anchor, I can change the length of the PAS quickly. In this regard the Metolius PAS starts to show some advantage. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. You can carry fewer runners if you climb on half ropes, which come in handy in the Gunks for protecting your second on the traverses and are nice on some of the long raps. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. If I was in your position I would use a double length sling pre equalized, or a single lengh sling with an overhand in the middle as your anchor. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Obviously clove hitches are more tolerant of the climber dumbing and letting a bunch of slack form. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Your anchor should never be shock loaded, so 11kn is well within the forces that it would take. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. My take is: I'm fine with dyneema knots at an anchor strength-wise. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't For example I don't usually bring enough double length slings that I want to use two of them up at a bolt anchor. If you extend a piece four feet, you’ve added eight feet to your fall, which is a bit much for safe travel on most blocky trad terrain. The slings could be looped multiple times over the biner attached to the bolt or knotted to equalize. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. Most climbers now only carry UHMWPE (Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene) so basketing the sling is a good option and we should stay away from girth hitches with this material. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more Sep 19, 2019 · The double shoulder length sling is still a great option for extending a rappel and using nylon can allow for a larger margin of error. Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from… I use a sling and a locking carabiner. I can use a double length sling for any number of things on a multipitch while a cordallete is generally going to be used almost exclusively for anchoring so using a cord seems like good conservation of pro to me. This is for sport, of course (2 generally level-ish chains). Mainly, an anchor will have a static load of you tied in to it, then a top roped follower, then the top piece should be clipped for the leader. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. This setup can work for everything from building a climbing anchor to making your own adjustable personal anchor system (PAS). It's also dynamic. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. The slings could be doubled up if length is an issue. ). Mar 13, 2024 · Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. It’s more efficient to build a pre-equalized anchor (with the same sling pictured) using an overhand or figure eight instead of tying two overhands on each side of your master point. You're good. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. It's annoying when the bar tack hangs up on the biner. The Bunny Ears is best for using with your rope, as it's a great and quick way to use the rope to anchor yourself to two points. Then it's as simple as using that to extend my atc and backing up with an autoblock. You'll have less room at your anchor and be less comfortable. This anchor is fine. Oct 22, 2017 · What's best is situational, but a sliding X on one sling is not an anchor because it lacks redundancy for arguably the most vulnerable part of the anchor: the sling. At most ill do 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 6 slings, and a double length sling. Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. You can easily store this system on your harness. I only bring double length slings if I know a pitch is going to be particularly difficult to manage rope drag on. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? I haven't carried cordalettes for years. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. Rappel off this knot, use the rest of the sling to clip in to the anchors when doing multiple rappels. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. I’m coming from the thought process of describing sling length as single (60), double (120), and quad (240), which makes sense in my head. jg Nov 12, 2018 · Using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms. The two Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. fykot qqx wgib svbf xlqcpm dsosc paandzx lieav qojtn mbfewns