Belay loop strength. I wouldn't expect a replacement from BD.

Belay loop strength. May 17, 2022 · Belay Loop The belay loop is the circular piece of thick webbing connecting to the two hardpoints discussed above. May 12, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A load bearing belay loop includes a load bearing inner structural ring that is formed by winding a single filament in many windings to form a coil, and an outer sheath made from a sheet material that is tubular in configuration and that is rolled axially to cover the ring. Let’s assume for a second that people are wondering if the haul loop is the same strength as the belay loop (which has a CE requirement of 15kN). belay loop and strength rated gear and haul loops. Dec 24, 2023 · Even while tied in with the rope, there’s plenty of room to clip a locking carabiner to your belay loop, or girth hitch a personal anchor or sling to your tie in points to go on direct safely. Is the technique they are using safe? Your belay loop is meant to be free to move for even wear and ideally should be used for metal gear like biners. There are a select few harnesses (such as those in the Metolius Safe Tech line) built with full strength gear loops. However, when climbers first began using ropes to safeguard their ascent, harnesses were a yet unheard of luxury – the early climbers simply Jan 12, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Or more simply, the belay loop connects the waist belt to the leg loops. I learned Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Apr 7, 2021 · Here is a quote on the strength of belay loops from a study conducted from “The number of days and falls a harness had suffered also lowered belay-loop strength. It’s a compact, pear-shaped design and wide rope-bearing surface for smooth belays and reduced wear. Each harness in this selection offers unique features tailored to enhance your climbing experience, whether you're a seasoned pro or just beginning your adventure. Strength testing a Saltoro harness belay Loop. In this article, we will turn our attention to the Jun 3, 2008 · Every climber must work to avoid crossloading carabiners. This is a good length to make an autoblock hitch or prusik hitch to use as a backup brake while rappelling. The Spectrum Harness has many great features including front stabilizer straps to keep the harness tangle free, a 4,000 lb gear loop and a full strength haul loop. In truth, the most noticeable difference is a thicker, wider belay loop. The Spectrum harness has a quick adjust waist and leg loop buckles. I see people belaying with their carabiner clipped around both tie-in points on their harnesses instead of clipped to the belay loop. Dec 12, 2017 · Girth hitched to belay loop Drop Tower Setup For all of the off-the-shelf products, we just used 1” steel pins on each end of the test (tower load cell, and steel mass)—so no girth hitching to a harness, etc—for consistency and to reduce variables. KP and the QC Lab crew head to the testing room to answer your age-old question … how strong is it? Simple, adjustable and clean. The girth hitch (Larksfoot) is used for: - Attaching slings to your belay loop - Attaching slings together. How to make simple but effective personal tethers for attaching your harness to a belay or rappel anchor when climbing. Jul 26, 2025 · 4. Over a dozen days on the harness I wouldn't expect a replacement from BD. May 15, 2024 · See the “expert photo” section below. Mar 15, 2016 · Introduction American climbers currently learn to belay from professional climbing instructors and guides, from formal and informal mentors, and an increasing number learn to climb in indoor/artificial climbing structures and facilities. Is the technique they are using safe? Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. P. In the alpine -- especially in a crevasse rescue situation Apr 11, 2013 · This usually happens when the carabiner somehow shifts, and the gate or the spine side of the carabiner ends up crossing the rope or the belay loop where the carabiner’s strength is at its weakest. John Sherman’s scare with a Dyneema sling failure on a near-static load, which led to Mammut’s test results below, also should serve as a prompt to keep your gear, and yourself, safe. The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. ” - Rock and Ice Magazine See full list on theclimbingguy. Along with climbing guides Brian Shelton and Jim Waugh, I tested the Mammut tether on over 100 pitches at the Garden of the Gods, Shelf Road, Pikes Peak, Turkey Rocks and other central Colorado crags. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete This 'Harness Belay Loop' is designed to be more than strong enough to belay from and to abseil on. Feed rope through the belay device correctly per manufacturer’s guidelines. Dec 18, 2018 · The debate between belaying or rappelling off your belay loop or tie-in points is a real one and it's a question of safety and comfort. For more of our Aug 31, 2023 · Harness Webbing Though we don’t always see it, the material that makes up the bulk of the harness strength and support is the webbing. Because it's tied in a loop and does not cinch down like a girth hitch, it's fine to use this on Oct 1, 2020 · Belaying is a crucial skill in climbing, as your climbing partner is literally putting their life in your hands. Sep 19, 2009 · The UIAA Safety Commission has published the first-ever safety standard for braking devices. Both times, I was given amazing customer service by friendly employees of Misty Oct 21, 2021 · I've just started rock climbing at an indoor climbing gym with a few friends. Manufacturers meeting the standard Jul 23, 2025 · Other belay devices need you to hold or pull your rappel rope at a specific angle. Aptly named, the belay loop is where you attach your belay device when belaying a climber or rappelling. The test result of the Load at Peak came up to 26kN which is way higher than the required UIAA standards. One of the first QC Labs we ever did was about belay loops: QC Lab: Strength of Worn Belay Loops As far as the CE standard for harnesses go, there is no belay loop specific test, rather the belay loop is in the full harness system during testing and must withstand 15kN. Still, don’t tie yourself in knots with worry. But as a matter of comfort, it is preferable to attach your lanyard to the belay loop. Jan 24, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. rated belay loop 3,000 lb. (And the poster who suggested "several deaths" was, of course, unable to come up with any others. Abrasio I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. In the case of rappelling, companies design some belay devices for a controlled descent specifically. This allows a belayer to belay – we are responsible for controlling the amount of slack in the rope, holding our fellow climber’s weight, or providing a ‘catch’ in case of a fall. Ask any gear manufacturer and they'll recommend that you always connect your belay/rappel device to your belay loop. Webbing is the material that provides the strong and flexible backbone of a harness and ties together all of the weight bearing parts, including the belt, the leg loops, and the belay loop. Technically, that haul loop only needs to be able to withstand the weight of a tagline (a few Features include the locking speed buckle (never slips or loosens), four high-strength gear loops (xs has two), high-strength haul loop, full-strength belay loop and reinforced tie in points. May 1, 2025 · One ding: The thin belay loop got twisted when testers were tied in while wearing personal anchor systems. 95 BUY NOW The Mammut Belay Chain is a beefy personal tether composed of interlocking sewn loops. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. Photo: Elliott Natz 4. Some people will appreciate the other Safe-Tech features. Belay device therefore facilitates the fall arrest of the climber. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. This has the advantage of not grabbing your belay loop, which might set up a friction sawing motion if you were to use the sling in an ascender system. When you re-tie it, make sure to tie the new back-up knot before removing the old one. It is a great choice for programs that need an adjustable climbing harness with a belay/rappel loop. There is more than enough strength even if the krab inadvertently gets loaded sideways. The belay loop is rated at 25kN, each strand of cord is 7. don't use the belay loop with a rope. Two redundant loops - for anyone who’s not too excited about rappelling off of a single loop of webbing, this is an elegant solution. Person above feeds out green rope through the Two color choices allow you to use a separate color for each length Prusik in a Tandem Prusik Belay System. Step 1: Feed a sling through your belay loop. However, the lesser-known history is that of the equipment which makes returning safely from these ascents possible. 1. If you're using a rope style lanyard such as the Petzl Connect Adjust, follow Petzl’s recommendation and girth hitch it to your belay loop. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs Belay Loop If you're placing an autoblock on your belay loop, you have to make sure and extend your belay device when rappeling (using a sling or something like the Metolius PAS). It is often advisable to go for a rear belay point to avoid twisting, making the attachment point between you and the belay on the rear of your harness (make sure you’re clipped into the belt or full-strength haul loop!). Jun 20, 2016 · So keep belaying off those belay loops! To be certified by the UIAA, the belay loop on your harness must withstand 15 kN of force (that’s over 3300 lbs) for three minutes, so it’s plenty strong. You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. This means it can handle forces roughly equivalent to 1,500kg – much more than you should be able to generate in a fall. ) If you're girth hitching a tether (or adjustable daisy for aid climbing) with a wider nylon sling, either the tie in points or the belay loop should be fine. But what length tails? Dec 30, 2015 · Cowstails are a type of attachment lanyard with two arms of differing lengths. 4 strands is 30kN or does the mechanics not work so simply. Run the tail through both tie-in loops (from the top or bottom, doesn’t matter, just make sure to go through both points and NOT the belay loop), and pull the rope tail so the knot sits close to your harness. Technically, that haul loop only needs to be able to withstand the weight of a tagline (a few Belay loops are burly strong. Perfect for adventure parks. You can do a direct belay with a self-braking belay device but not an aperture belay device. There are hundreds of types of knots you can use for climbing, so taking the step to learn them can be daunting. This article covers everything from setup to lowering the climber, so it's perfect for beginners and experienced climbers alike. Since the strength of the system is its weakest link, then why do this? (Didn't a famous climber die recently because his belay loop was worn?) If the problem is the carabiner size, why not have a specialist larger carabiner for belaying/abseiling? Nov 2, 2024 · Two belay loops give you more options with daisy chain configurations and are great for any time your harness is loaded in two directions. Remove the figure 8 device from the carabiner. Jan 17, 2014 · It is well past time to stop citing the Todd Skinner tragedy as any kind of evidence for concerns about belay loop strength. The belay loop is where you attach your locking carabiner and device for belaying and abseiling. 2 knot. and metal work can go through the belay loop. 9 wire is rated to 12kn). ) Schweeeeeet, now you're ready to go. The belay loop is the strongest point of a climbing May 17, 2022 · A belay loop must hold a 15 kN of force or more in order to be safety certified. Weight: 370 g (medium) Sizes: xs, s, m, l, xl Women’s model available Leg Loops: fixed the haul loop is strong (rated at 15kn) and can be used for attaching to haul ropes or "into the belay system as required". Your belay biner should connect directly to the rope tie in loop so that the forces of the belay can link directly to the anchor. May 19, 2013 · 1 Strength. I was on the big wall Todd Skinner was climbing a few days before his harness belay loop failed from excessive use so having a bomber harness is important. The Black Diamond Experience is where we showcase climbing, skiing and hiking adventures from around the world, plus event news, advocacy efforts and product and technology highlights-all in one dynamic smorgasbord of stoke From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. Pretty sure the double fisherman's bend is the best choice. It increases the friction rate of the rope resulting in reducing the amount of total force which the belayer has to hold by the strength of his/hers arms. The belay loop on Skinner’s harness broke when his body weighted the system. Why is this cool? Easy to untie after its been loaded, much more so than an overhand knot. This knot can make it hard to work with the carabineer and it has an ambiguous clip-in point for the rappel device. S. ) Let’s assume for a second that people are wondering if the haul loop is the same strength as the belay loop (which has a CE requirement of 15kN). e. Tie a back-up knot in any rope which you are ascending. Find Jul 8, 2013 · Yet you belay and abseil from the belay loop. They allow the user to securely connect themselves to an attachment point, such as a belay, traverse line, midline knot, mechanical ascender, descender, etc. Jun 21, 2023 · However, the carabiner will be positioned sideways on the belay loop, either along the locking mechanism or the carabiner’s spine. Customer Service Misty Mountain wins points for customer service. Is it saf both your belay loop and the loop of the rope on multi pitch climbs. In certain circumstances it is usual to belay from this 'harness belay loop'. May 24, 2018 · Well, that’s an exaggeration. The Black Diamond Experience is where we showcase climbing, skiing and hiking adventures from around the world, plus event news, advocacy efforts and product and technology highlights-all in one dynamic smorgasbord of stoke THE BD EXPERIENCE Welcome to the Black Diamond Experience, an organic presentation of inspirational stories, photos and videos from our athletes, employees and partners. This same long and short Prusik can be used as a belay and as well as a progress capture and haul. Mar 8, 2023 · In this article, we will go over how to set up 7mm Prusiks for 10mm rescue rope. The outer sheath is not load bearing. Remember that weathered tree tat you were eyeing? Or how ‘bout that 20-year-old rope you found sitting in a basement completely unused? Rest assured. First person down raps on blue rope, single strand. . A great harness for guiding with fully adjustable leg loops and a traditional double pass buckle, 6000 lb. Manufacturers prioritize the structural integrity of belay loops to withstand the stress and impacts encountered during climbing maneuvers. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. We used the chain in a wide variety of scenarios, including clipping onto bolt anchors Lightweight and extremely packable, the redesigned Couloir is still the harness of choice for mountaineers and skiers on steep snow climbs, short rappels and technical glacier travel, and now features an updated breathable vari-width Dynex monofilament webbing construction and our innovative Infinity Belay Loop. Many world class climbers and IFMGA Certified Guides prefer to use the belay loop. All the carabiners we talked about today, even the “best” carabiner” and heavier carabiners, are drastically weaker when there is a cross-load along the minor axis instead of the major axis. A. Jan 6, 2021 · A loop at the back of the harness is good for either belay gear or a tag line. rated gear loop Full-strength haul loop Quick adjust buckles throughout Standard: (44" Max), Extra Large: (56" Max) Enhance your SMART BELAY system with our durable Tie-In Loop. This carabiner is hot forged with a widened spine to prevent the migration of assisted braking belay devices. 2. He fell over 500 feet into the talus at the base of Jun 29, 2013 · The adjustable belay station sling offers for the first time in a sling, adjustability in the length whatever the situation without reducing strength by making knots. Tips It is not recommended to girth hitch your slings to bolts, or your personal anchor systems (P. FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-WORN HARNESS BELAY LOOP BROKE California, Yosemite Valley, Leaning Tower On October 23, Todd Skinner (48) and his partner Jim Hewitt were rappelling fixed lines from the Jesus Built My Hotrod route after an attempt at free-climbing it. If you are only using the sling for anchor cleaning, you are fine. Though Jun 5, 2025 · In climbing systems, we rely on the strength of the belay loop, tie-in points, and waist loop. Harnesses, like all climbing gear, are rated for force rather than weight because of the dynamic nature of their use. Air offers a unique slot on the belay loop to keep the carabiner from moving and becoming cross loaded during use. In general it is best to put the carabiner through the belay loop and not good practice to go through the tie-in points. Jan 22, 2007 · Todd Skinner’s recent death due to an old belay loop failure was a tragic reminder of the consequences of neglect. Dec 9, 2008 · The reason for this is that this technique relies on the stability of your body, literally coming apart if your body buckles. Most practitioners consider cowstails an essential piece of personal equipment for caving and aquatic canyoning. And does having only one knot lower the strength? And I'm leaving the original sewn loop on anyway. The tie-in points are for connecting your climbing ropes to your harness. In the event you lose control of your rappel strands, the hitch will grip the rope and stop you from rappelling further, so long as your rappel device is extended and the hitch is tied correctly. It is nice that the points where the harness wears the most are reinforced and the full-strength trail line loop is easy to clip. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. Thanks to introduction of belay devices the belaying The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. Mar 28, 2025 · The ability to properly tie climbing knots is an essential skill that every climber, regardless of experience or ability, should not only learn, but master. Use your belay loop to ensure that the load is on the spine. The C. It was a locker on the gym auto-belay, just didn’t get it fully through the loop (my fault) one time and semi-closed on the loop itself causing the abrasion. 6. Sep 10, 2015 · Belay loop: This thick webbing loop is one of the strongest parts of your harness, with a strength rating of around 15kN. Two slings girth hitched to either the tie-in loops or the belay loop (don't leave it attached to the belay loop permanently; that causes uneven wear on the belay loop which can weaken it prematurely), one to each bolt, are a popular choice. Jan 13, 2021 · The belay loop redistributes the load to a single point, maintaining the desired strength of a carabiner. There’s a really important nuance involved in climbing gear safety ratings Nov 22, 2021 · Do climbing harnesses ever fail? Likewise, harnesses that had held 20 or more falls annually broke at the leg-loop strap at 3,306 pounds, while those with fewer than 10 falls per year broke at 4,409 pounds. For example, you can clip a biner just about anywhere and hang from it. Like all climbing dogma I think knowing this technique and knowing when to employ it is enough (maybe with a very weak partner on a big route), but more importantly it’s vital to know how to escape when belaying off your belay loop anyway (prusik loop, taking the harness off, shear brute strength). Warning: Do not belay or rappel with your carabiner attached through the 2 tie-in points—this weakens the strength of the carabiner; use the belay loop instead. For a long weekend to the ultimate road trip, Misty Mountain's Sonic is loud and clear in its superiority to the floppy, uninspired harnesses better left on the shelf. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you find the best belay carabiners that you can rely on while you’re focused on belaying. Use it or loose it? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. com Aug 3, 2023 · The belay loop on a harness provides a place for attaching a belay device and thereby the rope to the belayer. If that is true (your call!) then no need to worry about the safety of the belay loop The stitching that has obviously come adrift at the corner of the orange webbing is just cosmetic stitching to keep the webbing neat. Prusiks are not full-strength attachment points. if you're not using a girth hitch and using a double loop bowline tether, it's okay to tie it through your belay loop with any kind of material. Mar 26, 2020 · With another locker, the rappeler clips the bight knot to their belay loop. Of course, I don't think there is a record of someone being killed by one of these scenarios, and now - tragically - a failure of a belay loop has killed someone. Harnesses with 250 or fewer days of use had an average belay-loop strength of 5,732 pounds, compared to 4,629 pounds for those used 451 days or more. I can have the link between the haul loop and master point fully tightened so I don't go anywhere. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. It lays out performance parameters and testing procedures for belaying and abseiling devices. Belay Loop The belay loop is a small, thick band of webbing that runs vertically between the leg loops and waist belt in the climber’s groin, serving as the primary point of attachment between the leg loops and waist belt. A helpful tutorial on carabiner strength ratings and why they are important. The inner ring may be formed by winding a single filament in many windings to form A slightly larger, modernized, auto lock version of our best-selling Element carabiner that features a smooth gate-to-body transition on the bottom of the carabiner eliminates the belay loop hangups common to other auto lock carabiners. Alternatively, you could skip this carabiner and bight knot, and tie in with a retraced figure 8. I have considered cloving in loosely to the masterpoint at the top, running the rope under my leg to a locker cloved into my haul loop (full strength). These loops also come in handy in aid climbing and crevasse rescue. P. The 9-mm cord is the size preferred by rescuers who use cord for a Load-Releasing Hitch. For example, if you are ascending a rope, you can have your top ascender attached to one belay loop and your backup knots attached to the other belay loop. Break your next barrier with Misty Mountain’s Sonic harness, a premier high end cragging masterpiece, with enlightened design and craftsmanship. It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. Jul 22, 2025 · Harnesses: Belay Loop. Aug 10, 2016 · MSRP: $39. Carabiner gates present the most common problem. Climbing history is rich with stories of impressive feats of strength, endurance, and determination. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. They are not strong at all compared to the belay loop itself. Belay loops must meet the UIAA minimum standard of 15kn. Oct 1, 2020 · A double loop bowline, tied through the belay loop (or tie in points). Apr 20, 2015 · The waist belt is comfy and the belay loop is beefy and confidence-inspiring. I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. People girth hitch slings to their belay loop all the time, and technically it should work, but can cause wear on the same point on the loop (look up Todd Skinner's accident to see why this is potentially dangerous). This is a really comfortable, light, packable harness recommended for practically any kind of climbing. 5. Introduction The harness is an important piece of climbing equipment that performs the vital task of attaching the climber to the rope or belay anchors, and also gives a means of arranging your other equipment so as to be close at hand when needed. (Harness not shown for clarity. Rise/elastic straps: The rise is the distance between the 2 leg loops and the waistbelt. And . It might be counterintuitive, but in the case of the number of loads on your locking carabiner, less is more. 5kN. Jul 13, 2024 · Belay loop designs vary in construction and features, with factors such as material selection, stitching techniques, and reinforcement patterns influencing their strength and durability. May 9, 2025 · The anchor attachment can again be clipped to the belay loop upon decent to achieve some redundancy. Belay Loop: The part of the harness where carabiners are clipped to in order to belay or rappel. So when people talk about a full-strength haul loop they are inadvertently referring to this standard. Just tie another belay loop in (9/16" webbing) and carry on. Cord is sold by the foot. Jan 11, 2012 · For top roping, there is nothing wrong with clipping onto a screwgate directly to your belay loop, strength wise. Harnesses that would be used as loaners to climbing partners had the lowestleg-loop strength and tied for the highest average belay-loop strength. The down side to the method is needing to use nylon and also the bulky overhand knot that stays in the carabineer. Extending a rappel offers a variety of advantages, mainly the ability to setup a backup that won’t fail if you were to let go of the rope on rappel. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. You can dress the knot appropriately to make it resemble a square knot. Available in 20cm & 35cm lengths, 22kN strength, EN 566 certified. Jun 25, 2008 · It's the bar tack stitching (grey) that gives the belay loop its strength and in the photo this doesn't look to be damaged at all. From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. A belay loop as set forth in claim 1 wherein the inner ring is constructed to meet the 15 kN (3,372 pounds) minimum strength Jan 9, 2024 · We'll explore "How to Belay: The Ultimate Guide to Belaying" in this extensive guide, with a particular emphasis on the tube-style device. And watch for situations where the gate to a carbiner might be compromised. Trying to thread rope through chains and untie a figure 8 knot with a belay loop that shifts or turns in on itself made cleaning routes a challenge. The Infinity is for the client that just keeps going and going and…Standard: Blue belay loopX-Large: Black belay loop Feb 20, 2020 · If you’re doing via ferrata, the standard practice is to girth hitch the lanyards to your belay loop. I noticed on the auto-belay walls, the was a carabiner you clip to your harness (I assume in the belay loop). To attach your belay device to your harness, you need a locking carabiner, and some are better for the job of belaying than others. The leg loop keepers are easily unhooked from the waist belt and adjusted. Pay attention to how the carabiner hangs off your harness while belaying or rappelling. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete We tested belay loops because there is gear fear about how safe they are after Todd Skinner's broke in 2006 during a rappel, costing him his life. In our series on innovations in climbing equipment we have discussed belay devices, rock protection, and climbing helmets. My ultimate question back to them is Why does it matter? Haul loops on harnesses are made for exactly that reason—to tag or haul a line, hence the name. Traditionally webbing has been made from nylon or polyester. On two separate occasions, I needed to call the Misty Mountain offices regarding my order. We saw so many cases of the rope, carabiner, or belay loop routed incorrectly through the harness tie-in points that we were convinced that the tie-in points must be designed to maintain their strength even if used incorrectly. Clip this knot to your belay loop and re-tie it frequently as you ascend. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Sep 12, 2023 · This setup is worthy of its own post, but in brief, the extension helps add friction, allows for a full-strength backup off the belay loop, and allows me to go hands-free to untangle ropes or check anchors. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Apr 22, 2025 · This is the standard figure eight; leave it somewhat loose. Sep 6, 2019 · Courtesy Black Diamond The other major advent with the AirNet is the Infinity Loop belay loop. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. Please see the table below for maximum lengths available for order. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. 6,000 lb. A load bearing belay loop, comprising: a load bearing inner structural ring; and an outer sheath made from a sheet material that is tubular in configuration and that is rolled axially to cover the inner ring, wherein the outer sheath is not load bearing. Still, belay loops have been known to fail, especially if they are old and worn, so always back it up to create redundancy in your chain of safety if you have any doubts about the loop's strength and integrity. Mar 14, 2021 · The next comment is something I have seen many times and provides little to no strength redundancy but can cause some pretty big issues: Temporary or back up belay loops are just not a solution. Jul 5, 2023 · The meeting point of the leg loops provides the second attachment point for the climber’s tie-in knot. Use a locking carabiner to connect the figure 8 device to your harness belay loop. Some harnesses, like the Metolius Safe Tech, also include rated haul loops and gear loops. Jul 16, 2024 · Tandem Prusik Belay system for efficient knot passing in rope rescue operations. In the harness pictured; a DMM Maverick , the strength of the Belay Loop is 25kn (that is strong - a no. The lead rope should be your primary anchor - your primary link from your harness to the anchor - because it is dynamic and flexible. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. The purpose of the new standard is to give climbers and mountaineers confidence that these critical pieces of gear meet the UIAA’s strict safety criteria. This way, if he falls at the top, my harness takes the weight of the fall and not my sack. Discover our collection of climbing harnesses designed with a focus on belay loop strength and safety. The Gatekeeper is a very easy to use belay/rappel 'biner that keeps the carabiner properly aligned on the belay loop to help prevent cross loading. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. M. By cutting and folding tubular Dynex, Black Diamond has created a seamless belay loop—no bulky bar tacks for your belay/rappel biner to catch on, and thus no need to manually readjust the loop to optimize belaying/rappelling. Oct 10, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. While there is general competence with belay related skills Apr 17, 2019 · The belay loop is extremely strong so it can withstand all the energetic forces of climbing, including severe falls. But what length tails? Apr 14, 2023 · You can rig a friction hitch, such as a prusik knot or autoblock, below your rappel device and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. Photo: Elliott Natz 3. How Do Companies Manufacture Belay Devices? The manufacturing process of belay devices depends upon the type of device and brand. Self-belay loop: Use a 2- to 3-foot length of 5 - 8mm Perlon cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman's knot. It was designed to prevent the very real problem of carabiners getting either side loaded or, more often, tri-loaded when clipped to the harness and leg loops. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device Belay … Mar 16, 2022 · Clip a locking carabiner and belay device to the the belayer’s harness belay loop. You can use a girth hitch with a figure 8 for canyoneering. . Hold the small hole of the figure of 8 in your left hand. Dec 22, 2016 · I see people belaying with their carabiner clipped around both tie-in points on their harnesses instead of clipped to the belay loop. Ensure safety and versatility with our step-by-step guide. Report on the Breaking of a Girth-Hitched I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. Understanding the nuances of belay loop design is essential for THE BD EXPERIENCE Welcome to the Black Diamond Experience, an organic presentation of inspirational stories, photos and videos from our athletes, employees and partners. Clip the bight into the locking carabiner that is clipped into the harness’s belay loop (a vertically oriented, full-strength sewn loop on the front of many harnesses connecting the waist belt to the leg loops) or through the crotch strap and waist belt on harnesses without a belay loop. The Metolius All-Around lacks those attachment points but offers great security by having all of the points on the harness built to high strength, including 9kN rated gear loops. Oct 27, 2006 · The belay loop was NOT designed for convenience. This article also describes some basic differences between belay carabiners, locking carabiners, and non-locking carabiners A rock climbing harness has to hold a minimum of 15kN of force (~3,300 lbs of force) with the belay loop, and 10kN (or ~2,200 lbs of force) with the waist belt in order to be certified by the UIAA. Always back up your prusiks. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. The belay loop is a full-strength-part of the harness, which means it is rated for any climbing related weight and force. It is connected with thin webbing or elastic straps. When I started climbing in 1973, climbers used four basic knots: the Double Apr 19, 2022 · We ran the Metolius Safe Tech climbing harness ragged — or tried to — from long, hot bolt clipping sessions to multipitch trad outings. S) to the belay loop on your harness due to a significant reduction in strength and wear and tear to your equipment. Belay device is a tool by which the person providing belay (belayer) controls the rope during fall arrest of the climber. rxad odbvki wqveif mtja mwpcf fvlxx ycydq wbfmu iogegm kvifudim