How to rappel with atc and prusik. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition.

How to rappel with atc and prusik. I can slow the descent by squeezing the body of the prusik with my hand or speed the descent by gently pressing on the top of the prusik. Jul 27, 2025 · A prusik is used with an ATC to provide a level of redundancy. This includes harness, helmet and personal safety system (this is the personal safety I use). This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. (At least in my Jun 3, 2022 · To make your third hand, girth-hitch your prusik around the rope at least three times and use a locking biner to clip it to your belay loop (fig. The Figure 8, also known as an 8 ring, is one of the simplest rappel devices, and has been around for a long time. com Dec 28, 2010 · I use a cordelette or sling to extend out my ATC to about eye level when rappelling, then attach the prusik below the device. – setting up an ATC Gear to Bring: – climbing harness – ATC + locking carabiner (note: you need an ATC even if you bring a GriGri) – clothing appropriate to be outside for several hours – personal anchor system (optional) – helmet (optional, but encouraged) – prusik cord (optional, but strongly encouraged) – water and snack May 22, 2025 · Begin by briefly defining rappelling and its inherent risks. Jul 18, 2023 · By following these step-by-step instructions, you can confidently clean and rappel from bolted sport anchors, ensuring your safety and minimizing wear on the anchor system. i use french prusik and trust it with my life. TR solo on one strand and tie knots, rap down double rope and untie your knots. Keep reading to learn how to use a rappel device when rappelling. Sep 12, 2023 · When it comes to adding friction on skinny ropes while rappelling, it requires some practice, personal testing, and expertise. Know how to rappel on that 7. Immediately establish that rappelling is inherently dangerous, and proper training is critical. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) How to use an Auto-Block to backup your rappel. Confirm that this last one is girth hitched through your harness’ hard points. To test, weight the hitch while still clipped in. Oct 3, 2021 · How to clean (bolted) anchors and rappel on an extended ATC with a third-hand backup attached to the belay loop. Feb 1, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. go more rounds, or try a different different prusik diameter? the prusik is to hold the rope downwards, as if your hand is pulling the rope down when braking on the atc. This rappelling tutorial will show how to set up a rappel and build an Sorry for portrait mode again. The prusik isn’t meant to take the weight of the climber, just enough to break the rappel while still relying on the rappel device, carabiner, belay loop to bear the weight. Rappelling requires the ability to make decisions on a situational basis, and the extended rappel might not always Apr 4, 2008 · Here's a climber about to rappel out of a tree on a doubled rope using a tethered ATC with prusik back-up. Is there a correct placement Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In general I would consider looking up an extended rappel. Dec 5, 2024 · Lowering and Rappelling The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. Jul 27, 2025 · How to Stay Safe When Rappelling Knowing how to use the ATC to rappel is just the beginning. . While being lowered by a belayer is generally the most ideal way Aug 26, 2022 · In Part 5 of this series, Alice shows Clare how to abseil/rappel from the top of a crag. What we found is this is a Very Dangerous and though looks like a clean way to rig May 26, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Advantages - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. Love the Megajul — one or two ropes in belay assist, guide mode, two rappel modes cheap, simple, robust and light. This is a continuation of teaching the series of knots and skills needed to do a simple rappel with simple gear. I’m more of a fan of the third hand underneath with an extended ATC. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. Nov 14, 2024 · Understanding Rappelling: A Comprehensive Guide Rappelling has long been a fundamental skill for climbers, essential for navigating 5th-class terrain. See full list on ascentionism. As a precaution, place a backup prusik on the rope under your rappel electronics. It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device. Prusik - Friction I use 40 ft of 9mm HTP, a Black Diamond ATC and a 35cm Beal Jammy prusik for an autoblock, a simple and relatively inexpensive set up. While I too would like to get rappelling as quickly as possible, there are some fast rigging setups that add huge value to your system and to your skill set as a technician in the vertical environment. Check that your rappel rope is connected to the anchor Belay looks correct, but you're gate loading the carabiner attached to the ATC, so rotate that carabiner 90 degrees. On marginal anchors, smooth rappelling is essential. For self rescue (ascending a rope), the ascender should be on top and closer to you. If you don’t know how to tie a prusik knot, you can learn here. What I found to be the most difficult when I first started was actually learning to trust the rope to hold me. Also you can loop that runner through your tie in points to save a carabiner and bring your ATC closer in. This guide will outline the gear needed, how to set up a personal anchor system, using an ATC (air traffic controller), and adding a third hand for extra security. Jun 21, 2024 · To tie an autoblock knot, wrap the hitch cord around the rappel ropes four to five times. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). edit: Also you have an ascender but not a grigri? The VT prusik can handle lots of weight, doesn’t fully death lock and is friction resistant. Now bearing in mind I have rappel rope as tether so I can get safely down in the dark. I also prefer to use a klemheist or auto block over a prusik for ease of tying, but a prusik works just fine. Munter Rappel: The HollowBlock carabiner gets clipped to your leg loop. Most people are so concerned about going up the wall that they fail to prepare for the (arguably more important) counterpart: safely coming back down. more Prusik Rappel Safety - A discussion paper on using a prusik knot to backup an abseil from the rock climbing archive site. Jan 27, 2021 · I set my rappel back up (guide ATC on a chain reactor, maybe 1 or 2 loops away from my harness), tied my prusik (below the ATC), and tested that the prusik would hold. The Pros and Cons of an Autoblock Knot The biggest advantage of using an autoblock A final option to belay a rappeller is a "third hand" which incorporates a friction hitch (e. Rappelling, or abseiling, is an essential skill for rock climbers to descend from a climb safely and efficiently. Equipment Used: Petzl Reverso* (Similar to an ATC) + Black Diamond Autolocking Rappelling backups are an ongoing topic. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. Apr 17, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The GriGri, however, already has redundancy— it has the assisted braking cam and the curves in the rope like the ATC. learn how to use an 8 belaying device Music: Lazy DayMusician: Jason ShawURL: https://audionautix. Jun 22, 2019 · Now assume the ascent has ended mid-rope (i. 3. With a prussik attached to a leg loop, you're pretty much forced to keep the rope off to that side. Whether used in high-angle rescue, climbing, or rigging operations, the Prusik knot provides a lightweight, adaptable solution for progress capture, backup belay, and other critical applications. I teach how to tie, check, and use a Prusik hitch as a safety belay backup. (If you use an alternative type of anchor tether to a PAS, some steps here will change slightly. Learn how to rappel right! What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. Ensure all personal safety equipment is on and fitted correctly. Prusiking is most commonly needed when: - You abseiled too far - You abseiled the wrong way - Your ropes get stuck after abseiling - If My questions are Is it a reasonable fear that my prusik knot could break in the event of a fall while rappelling? Can I just attach my prusik to my leg loop and tie my prusik below my ATC, or does this run the risk of the ATC pushing the prusik knot down and it not braking in the event of a fall while rappelling? Feb 7, 2017 · It was developed in 1931 by Austrian mountaineer Dr. org/licenses/by/4. This post is going to cover one of the most basic pieces of equipment, the rappel device. If you are rappelling and would like to retrieve your rope by pulling it down, instead of hiking back to collect it, this is a great device to single rope rappel. This shift is due to May 18, 2020 · 6 Usually I rappel using a tubular belay device such as an ATC and tie a stopper knot at the end of each strand of the rope such as a fisherman’s knot. Another safety piece will be with a prusik knot above the ATC or whatever you use. Rappelling is quite safe, but only if performed correctly. ly/2LjasRB Sometimes you need to know how to get out of a tight spot, with the gear you have on you. How can I lower my ATC? 1 – Tie a quick overhand or figure 8 on Sep 14, 2021 · How do you rappel if you drop your ATC? There are three primary methods for rappelling without a traditional belay device: Pursuing a single rope rappel with your partner, using only one belay device. Say the first down on rappel got hit by rock fall and was unresponsive while held in place by their third hand. This article explains how to ascend a rope using prusiks, assuming that you already know how to tie one. Down prusik to them, render first aid if possible, go in direct to their descender, remove your prusiks, and take over the rappel to get you to a safe ledge or the ground and call for help. I have an ATC belay device on my bridge, rope threaded on that. A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. Test your system out before you go. A six-carabiner rappel essentially uses carabiners to create a makeshift version of a standard ATC. Fix the middle of your rope. How it is advisable to rappel in this configuration? Friction hitch with two ropes? A friction hitch Also most never add a backup/Prusik to rappel unless it’s like 300 feet/multi pitch Stick to high trafficked canyons at the start (stuff like Cassidy arch or leprechauns). Here’s a photo from that post to show you the difference. This ‘preflight check’ is something that should be done with any backup and should be a part of More accidents happen on rappel than any other part of climbing, so always take your time, make sure your systems are redundant and practice the steps before you head to the cliff. Some people prefer to have the prusik on their leg loop, others use the belay loop. Never rely on one friction hitch! Aug 17, 2024 · Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent May 15, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. Wrap the prusik near the two strings and attach it to the leg loop on the same side as your brake hand. And I plan to be able to clear routes from the anchor by double rope descending (twin rope? half rope? whatever). In I think if the atc loop snapped while the prusik is engaged then you could be in a really bad situation. 8mm rope before you need to do it in the alpine. This post will walk you through what a rappel device is, how to use one, and some of the most common types of belay and rappel devices. Using a munter hitch, using only one locking carabiner and the climbing rope. With the pre-rigged rappel, we can increase the security of our team while also making the descent more efficient. The prusik would stay on the rope and pull the atc up from the guide loop. Subscribe to our channel for the latest updates and more! In this video we review two ways to back up a belay device for a rappel. , a Autoblock, Klemheist, Prusik, etc) on the rope strand of rope that exits the brake-side of the DCD. That might not be enough friction to hold you. Or use a grigri and rap down the other strand. Abseiling (or rappelling) is a technique used to descend climbing ropes. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. Introduce the Grigri as an assisted-braking device and briefly explain its potential advantages and disadvantages compared to other rappelling methods like using an ATC. Downwards Hauling If pulling upwards is difficult, you can re-direct the rope through the anchor to change the hauling direction. Anchor materials (runners, biners, cordelette to equalize with block-and-tackle) Rappel gear (ATC Guide or similar, extension, autoblock, biners) Pulley/biner for drop loop, long runner if needed for extension of the drop loop Progress capture (tibloc, microtraxion, etc. My 2-3 person glacier rope is a 37m 7. Think about it, the prussik is used as a backup knot when rappelling. Note the rappel device is extended away from the harness with a locking quickdraw (one of various ways to do this), and the autoblock knot is below the rappel device. Jun 23, 2023 · Climbing and rappelling go hand in hand. Once you are set up, it is pretty fast, if you are mutli-pitch rappelling. Then the locker quickdraw can be used as the rappel extension on the way down, and one of its locking biners goes directly on the ATC. Connect yourself to the anchor using your personal safety. Karl Prusik (not prussik) and within a few years it became a must-know skill. In this guide, we explore the Prusik knot’s role in rope I still use a Prusik backup with it out of habit and use the reverse smooth rappel mode mostly (non-locking). Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. This shift is due to Dec 29, 2018 · A back-up is generally a good thing, but more gear also means more ways something can go wrong. Jun 8, 2016 · The prusik is already attached to the climber’s belay loop, so all she has to do is add a second friction hitch for her feet below the first friction hitch. Aug 22, 2021 · Can you rappel with a Prusik? The prusik is already attached to the climber’s belay loop, so all she has to do is add a second friction hitch for her feet below the first friction hitch. What’s the best way to rappel on a rad line? I know petzl says you can use a Reverso with 2 carabiners, or some people say using an atc alpine or microjul works, and some people even recommend a canyoneering plate like a Grivel scream, but none of these are assisted and you’d still need a backup/3rd hand, and it sounds like prusiks aren’t recommended (but some people use them anyway Rappelling with a Mega or Giga Jul - your thoughts? The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). Dec 12, 2022 · Pass the knot by removing your rappel device from above the knot and reinstalling it below the knot, with a third-hand backup prusik in place below your ATC (clipping the prusik to your leg loop is common when not using a rappel extension). This can be remedied by adding more ‘wraps’ of the autoblock around your rappel ropes and by checking your autoblock’s ability to ‘grab’ the rope before you start your rappel. Jan 16, 2025 · I often don't bother with a quad and use instead either a single locking biner on the chains or if there are no chains a locker quickdraw to connect both bolts (assuming bolted anchors; gear anchors a whole other issue). If you are transitioning from descending (rappelling) on your ATC and third hand to ascending with one prusik and a calamity knot, be sure to tie the calamity knot first! Then attach a longer prusik above your ATC and slide it as far upward as you can. While it is often called a knot, the prusik it technically a hitch. g. This is a safer way to utilize an ATC in tree climbing, as mentioned earlier I'm uncomfortable with the idea of descending out of a tree on a system that doesn't have hands off stop. Jun 3, 2019 · For example, pre-set and lock off the ATC to a comfortable distance below the foot-anchors, then put the end of The Rope through the higher anchor/strong point/bolt carabiner to make a doubled rope, and rappel down over the edge and onto your locked-off ATC using a munter on the doubled end. ) You also need a 24- to 36 The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. Avoiding grabby rappel backups like the prusik hitch allows you to rappel much more smoothly with less effort. For tether I just use a purcell prusik This video was made with a saddle hunter in mind and shows how to safely transition from a tree tether, tied off with a prusik cord, to a figure 8 or other device for a rappel down the tree once I was practicing the auto-block abseiling setup with prusik knot and ATC / eight. 2. If your prussik is needed for whatever reason and is only tied onto one strand, the rope can just be pulled through the anchor like you pull a rope around a pulley. Jun 17, 2013 · Rigging to rappel is an often undervalued skill. If you are doing double-rope rappelling, a grigri or an ATC would work best. This article explains how to attach yourself to the anchor, and abseil with an ATC. While your setup here works having the prusik on the braking strands limits the amount of force applied to the prusik. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. Girth hitch a 60cm sewn sling in your tie in points to extend the device, and put the prusik in the belay loop with a screwgate. Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. 7mm, I use the ATC-Alpine Guide, and a hollowblock to backup my rappels. Enjoy! Auto-block - Backup when rappelling, we use the Sterling HollowBlock for this. For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prusik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. Really depends on rope, the atc, and angle. Friction (Belay/Rappel) Device There are a lot of different styles of devices to connect your harness to the rope, but the most common is a tube-style belay device like an ATC, which can double as a rappelling device and allow you to pass both strands of the rope through it. Without tying that extra dangle, just clip your belay device into the loop that goes around your hard points. Get some DMM rigging gear: http://bit. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. The earliest versions were used in the 60’s, though the inventor is unknown. What we found is this is a Very Dangerous and though looks like a clean way to rig Nov 14, 2024 · Understanding Rappelling: A Comprehensive Guide Rappelling has long been a fundamental skill for climbers, essential for navigating 5th-class terrain. ) Pulley/biner/rope grab to add mechanical advantage; can reuse the waist The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. After this, you will be all set to start with rappelling. This loop of cord is then wrapped around the rope as a prusik hitch, which is then clipped to the leg Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. It can be used as a rappel backup, to ascend a rope, to escape a belay, for glacier travel and for rescues. Backing up the belay device Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Finally, straighten out all the wraps so they’re not crossed. Seconding this - it's super quick to set up / take down, requires almost no extra gear, and is way easier to actually ascend than just pulling rope back through a prusik-backed rappel device. The ATC will not add friction, but it can help to prevent the upper prusik from getting sucked through the carabiner. Now let’s get into the guts of how to stay safe up high while rappelling! Use a Prusik A prusik is a length of accessory cord with both ends tied together using a fisherman’s knot to form a loop. Reply reply More repliesMore replies May 9, 2025 · Climbing is inherently risky. Rap Backup - From Karl Lews web site. That way the prusik is only holding a small amount of weight, the same your hand would hold. Jul 10, 2025 · The Prusik Knot (ABoK #1763) is a friction hitch used for climbing and rappelling. Presenter - Darrell WestonVideographer - Matt Blecharz Rappelling is another essential skill when you're out in the wilderness and a fantastic gateway to moving on steep terrain. You use two of the carabiners to attach to your harness belay loop, two The best way to do this is to extend the rapel device and put the prusik below. Dress the prusik and lock your biner. 7K subscribers Subscribed Aug 30, 2021 · Can you rappel with a Prusik? As a backup for rappelling Perhaps the most obvious reason to carry a Prusik is to use it as a “third hand” or backup while rappelling. You are rappelling using the ATC with both strands of rope and the rope is looped through the anchor. 0/leg Dec 11, 2014 · This information and the order in which it is presented is intended to provide an overall understanding of these techniques; they are not intended to serve as a tutorial on how to rappel or engage in any other climbing activity outside of the context of a complete climbing course. You can use both hands to help brake off, which is good when you don't have rappel gloves. I make mine large enough to prusik onto the rope. No problems. This method uses three groups of two ‘biners, arranged in an opposite and opposing manner, to create friction in the system. Use up most of the cord during your wraps to create friction. Traditionally, it was a cornerstone of climbing instruction—new climbers often learned to rappel before scaling their first pitch. While I don’t believe in setting hard and fast rules such as you must always rappel with a Prusik, I do think giving yourself the option is an excellent idea. C) Prusik knot clipped to belay loop as backup—useful for heavier partners or wet or icy ropes. Extending your belay device before abseiling can be useful in certain situations. Jul 16, 2025 · It is the best choice for single-rope rappelling. The Cons to Rappel with a GriGri Well, first and foremost, some people will give you flack for being unsafe. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. Using a double carabiner brake rappel with four carabiners. At the end of the day knowing how to rappel with an ATC will lead to grander rappel adventures, descending heights and reaching destinations that previously were inaccessible. Feb 2, 2019 · The auto block and extended rappel are covered in depth at this tip. You are over complicating this. So while 3 wraps might do it for 6mm cord around a 9mm rope, you might need 4 around this 7. Feb 22, 2020 · The main downside to the autoblock is that it creates less friction than either the prusik or the kleimheist. May 29, 2018 · Advanced Rappel Techniques SIET, School for International Expedition Training 30. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. Optional Gear Traction device or backpack Prusik Rappel device (ATC) Bail Carabiner Emergency Device (InReach) Route topo Gloves Free Carabiners Food Water Dec 29, 2018 · A back-up is generally a good thing, but more gear also means more ways something can go wrong. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. Jul 26, 2025 · How to Rappel with a Figure 8 1. e. While climbing hand hanging, the atc merely works as tender for the prusik, I keep Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. However, modern climbing practices have evolved, and rappelling is now less ubiquitous. It puts the belay device about 8 or so inches away from the harness and there is about 3-4 inches between that and my backup clipped into my belay loop. A) Belay/ rappel device with locking carabiner clipped to master point. no stable anchor to hook in to) and the climber wants to transition to a rappel. Mar 9, 2021 · Home - Climb - Abseiling Safely: The Complete Guide on How to Rappel Proper abseiling technique is a valuable skill for every rock climber and mountaineer to have in their pocket. One friction hitch above it and a distel hitch on the brake strand tied to my linemans loop. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. Or use the atc and back up the rap with a prusik on the single rope. If the rescuer becomes incapacitated due to rock fall or other circumstances, the friction hitch will grab the rope and stop his descent. One piece of added gear needed here and for many rappels is a personal anchor system (PAS), attached to your harness by a girth hitch tied through both harness tie-in points. It is certainly a necessary part of rappelling, but most people I know rig quickly and almost thoughtlessly so they can get to the fun stuff. When rappelling and using an autoblock consisting of a french prusik knot it seems there may be some options on how and where to attach the autoblock to my harness. Is there a perfect way to backup your rappelling system? Checking Rappel Gear Your essential climbing gear is also your rappel gear, with a few additions. What is the safest and most simple method of flipping the ATC guide and the entire system out of auto-locking mode and back into a typical rappel mode? Jun 21, 2023 · FIGURE 2: Lowering a partner from above with a redirect and backup. Knowing how to prusik up a rope transforms a potential epic into a mere inconvenience. The Klemheist is easier to tie, and I think it holds better than a prussik (for the number of wraps). 8mm rope. Self-Sliding Prusik If an ATC is available, you can add it to the master point during Step 4. Should I backup my rappel - Comments from climbers reproduced in Dawn's FAQ regarding backing up an abseil with a prusik (or similar) knot, above or below the belay device. Wrap 2-3 times around both strands of rope (enough for it to grab), and clip other end to the same carabiner for the WAC Way. 4; if not extending your rappel, clip it to your leg loop). Dakota, of Live Rogue, discusses the concept of connect your VT Prusik directly to his Black Diamond Guide ATC. B) Redirect through carabiner clipped to anchor. It does not grab particularly well, but it provides enough friction for use below an ATC while rappelling. Hey! Glad to see someone else using a Purcell. For example, many folks like to tie the prusik to their leg loop, but if you do that, you have to make sure the prusik is *very* short, or else the bottom of your ATC will hit the prusik and push it along the rope, rendering the prusik useless. comLicense: https://creativecommons. Piece of shock cord and some tape is required to silence the ATC. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Optional Gear Traction device or backpack Prusik Rappel device (ATC) Bail Carabiner Emergency Device (InReach) Route topo Gloves Free Carabiners Food Water Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. It slides when unweighted but locks under load, making it a reliable knot. Learn how here. Nov 3, 2024 · The Modified Autoblock is what I generally use as a rappel backup. There are two potential downsides to a third-hand belay It should fit snug without being tight, and sit above your hip bones. Then, use a locking carabiner from your harness leg loop, clip both ends, and lock the carabiner. Is there a safety knot which you can tie before rappelling using the Munter hitch (instead of an ATC) on a double-stranded rope which does not pass through your carabiner? The safest way to rappel with a carabiner is to perform what is known as a six-carabiner rappel. FIGURE 3: Increasing friction for a lower with a thin-diameter or wet or icy rope, using a Munter hitch on a Dakota, of Live Rogue, discusses the concept of connect your VT Prusik directly to his Black Diamond Guide ATC. so it doesnt hold a lot of load. I was pretty confident with how it works, until I realized that I was testing single rope setup. Most climbers now rappel with an autoblock hitch below the device, clipped to a leg loop with a locking carabiner. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. I use the sterling hollow block, but also use accessory cord at times i dont have it. In order to rappel down, remove the calamity knot and lower yourself. In recent years, Figure 8’s have largely disappeared in climbing areas, due to the popularity of the ATC (how to rappel with an ATC), as well as the publicity of a few fatal accidents (more Aug 25, 2022 · An ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. If you Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. With the other hand, I push the top of the prusik down which releases pressure on the ATC rappel device and allows me to go down. Extended Rappel w/ ATC: Clip the HollowBlock to your belay loop with a small, locking carabiner. Dec 3, 2024 · Prusik Knots in Rope Systems The Prusik knot is a cornerstone of technical rope systems, widely regarded for its versatility and reliability. Seneca Rocks Climbing School guide Adam Happensack demonstrates how to properly load an ATC for rappel to reduce the odds of dropping the device. axhnjc ijmmd fmuv dzq cxty ccif xmhw mmyhvaf yxpryk lean